Panama

Casco Viejo, Panama: Coffee Shops, Rooftops & Colonial Streets

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I hadn’t thought much about Panama before I went, and Casco Viejo completely changed that. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site on a small peninsula at the edge of Panama City, a neighborhood where 400-year-old ruins sit next to meticulously restored boutique hotels, where a great coffee shop might have original stone walls, and where you can watch the modern city skyline shimmer across the bay from a rooftop at golden hour.

Getting Around Casco Viejo

White colonial building with ornate turquoise window shutters and wrought iron balconies in Casco Viejo Panama

Wrought iron balcony and brick arches inside a colonial building in Casco Viejo, Panama

Casco Viejo is small enough to walk entirely in a few hours, but you’ll want more time than that. The streets are cobblestone and color, with pastel facades, wrought-iron balconies, and bougainvillea spilling over old arches. There’s something photogenic around every turn. I was there in early April, right at the tail end of Panama’s dry season. Mornings and evenings were gorgeous, though midday brought some cloud cover and the occasional light shower. Plan your outdoor time around that and you’ll be fine.

The Coffee Scene

I don’t normally drink coffee, but Central American coffee is a different story entirely. It’s so smooth and creamy, none of that bitterness or astringency I usually associate with it. Casco Viejo has a great cafe scene, and I made it a mission to hit as many as I could.

Sucre Coffee was my favorite of the trip. It’s a cute little spot, nothing flashy, but the coffee is some of the best I had in all of Panama. I kept going back.

Barista making coffee behind a green marble counter with floor-to-ceiling wooden bookshelves at Unido Coffee in Casco Viejo, Panama

Iced latte in a frosted glass on a wooden counter at Sisu Coffee in Casco Viejo, Panama

Unido Coffee is Panama’s most well-known specialty coffee chain, and the Casco Viejo location sits right next to the American Trade Hotel. They serve Geisha coffee, the prized Panamanian variety, and the coffee is outstanding. I loved it just as much as Sucre. The two are neck and neck for me.

Sisu is the most Instagram-worthy of the bunch and photographs beautifully, but the coffee didn’t live up to the setting. Worth a visit for the space if you’re doing a full cafe crawl, but I’d keep expectations in check.

A few others worth knowing: Olimpia for a slower, prettier morning, La Vasquita if you want dessert with your coffee (their Basque cheesecake is famous), and Tiempos Coffee inside the American Trade Hotel for specialty coffee in a gorgeous setting.

The Cute Streets

Rows of colorful Panama hats hanging overhead outside shops on a street in Casco Viejo, Panama

Colorful molas and woven textiles hanging overhead in La Calle de Las Molas alley, Casco Viejo Panama

La Calle de Las Molas is a narrow alley lined with vendors selling molas, the hand-stitched textile panels made by the Guna people, with intricate layered geometric patterns. I had no idea how detailed the work was until I saw them up close. Each one takes weeks of stitching by hand, and the craftsmanship is extraordinary. Prices are reasonable and they make some of the best souvenirs you’ll find in Panama.

Just nearby is a second street where hundreds of hats hang overhead in every color, spilling out of the shops below. It’s chaotic and colorful, and one of the most photogenic spots in the whole neighborhood.

The Hotels

One of the things that makes Casco Viejo special is that almost every hotel here is gorgeous. The neighborhood is full of restored colonial mansions and historic buildings that have been converted into boutique properties. Even if you’re not staying, they’re worth popping into for the architecture. Two that stood out to me:

Woman walking through arched doorway into the light-filled restaurant at American Trade Hotel with blue patterned tile floor, Casco Viejo Panama

Dining room at American Trade Hotel with patterned blue tile floor, globe pendant lights, and lush plants in Casco Viejo Panama

American Trade Hotel is one of the most striking buildings in Casco Viejo. A 1917 Beaux-Arts landmark that was meticulously restored, it’s now a luxury hotel with an atmosphere that’s hard to walk through without stopping to look around. The jazz bar, the central courtyard, the lobby details are all worth the visit.

Beautiful breakfast buffet display with pastries, fruit tarts, and bread against the original stone walls of Hotel La Compañía in Casco Viejo, Panama

Salmon croissant with microgreens and a matcha latte at Hotel La Compañía breakfast in Casco Viejo, Panama

Hotel La Compañía was originally a Jesuit convent built in 1688 and is now part of Hyatt’s Unbound Collection. Three colonial wings from different eras (Spanish, French, and American) have all been restored with the original stone walls and wrought iron left intact. We had breakfast here and the menu was excellent, and the buffet spread is one of the most beautiful I’ve seen at any hotel. The Capella Rooftop Bar also has some of the best views in the neighborhood.

Rooftops at Sunset

View from a rooftop in Casco Viejo at sunset with the Metropolitan Cathedral tower and red tile rooftops visible against the sky

View from a rooftop in Casco Viejo at sunset looking over colonial rooftops toward the bay and distant hills

Casco Viejo’s rooftops are some of the best I’ve found in Central America, and the view here is uniquely good. You’re looking at two completely different skylines at once. The low, colorful colonial rooftops spread out below you, and the gleaming glass towers of modern Panama City shimmer across the bay. At golden hour it’s quite something.

A few to know:

Tantalo Roofbar is the original Casco Viejo rooftop and still one of the best. Great cocktails, great crowd.
LAZOTEA at Hotel Casa Panama is more of a fine dining experience, with beautiful panoramic views.
Casa Casco is a five-floor complex with multiple restaurants and a rooftop terrace with 360° views, great for a late afternoon sunset or a night out.

I had dinner up on a rooftop one evening, and the warm light, the old city laid out below, and the modern skyline shimmering across the water made for a view I keep thinking about.

Where to Eat

Mahalo is a tropical, health-focused restaurant with a garden setting that’s perfect for a relaxed lunch. Think poke bowls, fresh juices, and a menu that makes you feel good about what you’re eating. It’s a well-known spot in the neighborhood and worth the visit.

Nacionsushi is a Japanese and Southeast Asian fusion spot inside the Casa Casco complex, right in front of the American Trade Hotel. The rolls are creative and generously portioned, the atmosphere is great, and it’s one of the better sushi spots I’ve found outside of a major Asian city.

For a more casual evening, Fonda Lo Que Hay has the kind of laid-back bar energy that’s rare at a place with actually good food. It fills up, the vibe is warm and convivial, and the menu leans local. I stayed longer than I planned.

Practical Info

The white clock tower of the Metropolitan Cathedral at golden hour beside a yellow neoclassical building in Casco Viejo Panama

Corner of a cream-colored colonial building with flower-draped wrought iron balconies and a red tile roof in Casco Viejo Panama

Getting there: Uber runs in Panama City and is the easiest way in from Tocumen International Airport, about 20-30 minutes depending on traffic.
Getting around: The whole neighborhood is walkable. The cobblestones are charming but uneven, so wear comfortable shoes.
Best time to visit: Dry season runs December through April. Early April is a sweet spot with sunny days, good light, and slightly fewer crowds than peak season.
Safety: Casco Viejo is well-patrolled and generally safe in the main tourist areas. Use common sense at night and stick to the lit streets.
Budget: Coffee runs $3–6, rooftop cocktails $12–18, dinner at a nicer restaurant $25–50 per person.